How to Ground an Outlet

The older homes are often supplied with a two-pronged receptacle that should be replaced by a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI or GFCI). Some new houses also may have a receiver that is not adequately grounded, a loosening, or a disconnection of the ground wire.

You can save yourself from hiring a costly electrician by learning how to ground an outlet. This is a relatively simple way of preparing and knowing the proper steps. In these circumstances, we are revealing to you the path for how to ground an outlet.

Ways to Ground an Outlet

Most electrical codes required a ground cable connected to all power outlets and devices since the early 1960s. However, most cabling used to include just two wires, mainly hot and neutral. You may think it’s enough to have an emergency shield, but surge shields only properly work when attached to a grounded outlet.

The fundamental way to ground an outlet is given below:

STEP 1: Getting Started

Check Your Local Electric Codes and Check Your Schedule:

Most residential building projects require many inspections and permits, especially in connection with electrical work. You may need an ongoing service inspection, a rough inspection, and a final inspection to ensure your code is up-to-date. If you employ an electrician for yourself or doing the work yourself, you have to do that.

Contingent upon where you reside, you might have the option to investigate yourself on the off chance that you live in a detached family home.

Outside GFCIs should likewise be climate-safe and set apart with the letters “WR” (Weather Resistant), regardless of whether it has a climate cover. In specific spaces, you may require a GFCI because of nearby water installations.

Check your neighborhood wiring codes to determine whether a three-prong GFCI is a good swap for a non-grounded two-prong repository. There are good established strategies for a non-grounded GFCI. Typically, consider putting a sticker on the repository cover stating “No Equipment Ground.” The GFCI doesn’t require any ground association for legitimate activity.

On the off chance that your house was wired “to code” at first, there is, for the most part, no legitimate necessity to upgrade to grounded outlets or GFCI (or even AFCI) outlets. An exception may occur if other work is done that uncovered the wiring. Protection or other security concerns may nonetheless exceed meeting just the base code prerequisites.

Buy a Tester in a Local Home Repair Shop:

A circuit test tester plugs into the container, and it has various light combinations to indicate the multiple problems a container may have.

You can buy them in any home repair facility. One model has a GFCI tester button by switching off the outlet if the excess current is detected. It’s a little more expensive, but it is also a better purchase to check the GFCI.

For example, the analyzer can advise you if the power source is experiencing a loss of ground or whether the wiring is switched.

Test the Receptacles:

If the circuit testator is to be used, simply connect it to each receiver and see the indicator lights. When the light is not grounded correctly, mark the cover with a masking cassette. Mark the cover. Move on to the next pot.

  • Most analyzers are planned with three prongs: hot, unbiased, and ground.
  • Use a multiple meter to place one lead in the hot port on the repository, the other on the metal outlet box, or the metal of the plate screw on the chance that your container has two. If the meter peruses around 120V, the crate is grounded. Assuming you don’t get a voltage perusing, the crate isn’t grounded.
  • Ensure your circuit analyzer is working before you start by connecting it to a container that you know works.

Try not to attempt to fix more than each container in each turn. Unless you are certain of your work, it’s smarter to check them each in turn. This may include turning the electrical switch on and off ordinarily while you work.

Break the Power Connection:

Either turn off the disruptor controlling the receipts into a particular room, or turn off the main switch for the entire house. If the breaker is just turned off, try the receiver again with the circuit tester to correct it.

Some “circuit identifier” gadgets naturally affirm you have turned off the legitimate circuit because the “tone” unit connected to the repository quits flagging when its circuit is off.

Know that some duplex (twofold) repositories might be “parted” inside, so one section is exchanged independently from the other, such as the floor lights.

You can find a repository still hot if the switch is turned, off but the breaker is still on, in one repository and not in another. Check all outlets from a duplex container unless you know how the container is wired after the crate is open and removed.

Eliminate the Cover Plate of the Receptacle:

Generally, cover plates will be appended with flathead screws, which implies you ought to have the option to handily eliminate them with a little flathead screwdriver.

If the paint or backdrop is protruding, you may have to painstakingly cut around the repository with a utility blade to hold the backdrop back from tearing and making the divider look raggedy.

Step 2: Receptor Examination

Eliminate the Receptacle:

Unscrew the mounting screws situated at the top and lower part of the container. You may have to cut the painted edge or mortar and pry it free. Cautiously pull out the repository from the container to the extent the wires permit and find the green establishing screw close to the lower part of the repository.

Find the establishing wire, if appropriate. Frequently, the establishing wire is an uncovered copper wire. The establishing wire may likewise be green if it comes from an industrial facility amassed gadget. A metal box may likewise be grounded through a conductor or metal-sheathed link.

Analyze the Repository and the Wiring:

It would help if you appended or fix the establishing wire on the off chance that you have three wires in the crate (dark, white, and copper). On the off chance that you have just two wires and a 2-prong container, you can connect a GFI or GFCI repository.

This gives ground deficiency circuit interference to the branch circuit and should be recognized as a “no gear ground.” Suppose your more seasoned wiring has two wires (highly contrasting, with no establishing wire). In that case, the crate isn’t grounded, and you should supplant the link with the correct number of channels, including a dark, white, and establishing wire if you want to launch (e.g., for lessening radio-recurrence commotion).

GFCI containers won’t secure delicate gadgets. However, establishing wires will.

In the United States, a different ground wire may just be raised to a current repository to give ground to a GFCI container if the cables are introduced following the National Electric Code (NEC).

If there is a ground wire, usually an exposed copper or green wire in a connector or a conductor in the box, it may be grounded, which means that the ground is to be tested. You should add one to a grounded registry with an ohmmeter to observe obstruction if you have one.

Assuming the metal outlet box has almost no obstacle, it’s dropped. Metal course and numerous sorts of metal-sheathed links additionally fill in as appropriate establishing implies if they have a whole “way” attached to a legitimate establishing point.

If you discover old wiring, which is a dark material around covered elastic wiring, you may need to let it be and call a circuit repair expert to supplant it appropriately. Just moving it might affect the protection, making it dangerous to stimulate.

Ensure the Security of the Ground Wire:

Frequently the establishing wire is folded over the link as it enters the crate. For this situation, you should braid the gadgets’ entirety together and have one lead from the ponytail ground to the metal gadget installation box. It is another information utilized as a ground for the new establishing repository.

Introduce Another Repository if Necessary:

On the off chance that you don’t have an establishing channel in the container, and you need a genuine ground reference there, establishing that repository requires putting in new wiring to code. Establishing a three-prong GFCI substitution for a two-prong container isn’t generally essential.

When using a GFCI to secure and control extra libraries, with or without the soil, the connection, and conductors running in line and below the chain to separate containers, the GFCI may be used.

One GFCI will ensure every one of them is appropriately associated as a “load” on the principal GFCI.

The heap terminals on the GFCI are possibly utilized when you’re attempting to ensure different containers with that GFCI.

The GFCI doesn’t utilize the ground terminal yet should be denoted “No hardware ground” on each secured container on the off chance that it isn’t associated with an establishing conductor.

Step 3: Establishing the Receptacle

Fix the Establishing Wire to the Grounding Terminal:

On the off chance that the establishing wire has gotten free or separated, circle the establishing wire over the green terminal screw and fix it with a Philips or flathead screwdriver. Make a loop with a few needle nose forceps to the finish off the copper wire.

The wire is placed on the pin. Make sure to put the wire circle on the terminal screw to fix the screw. The process is set and not pushed off the terminal.

On a GFCI repository, you would associate with the two “line” terminals. Just the downstream containers would be related to the “heap” terminals of a GFCI.

Check the association of different wires also. The dark wires should be securely fitted to the “Hot” metal terminal and the white wire to the “Impartial” silver terminal.

On an enraptured repository or a grounded container, the bigger space is impartial (white wire), and the more modest opening is hot (dark wire).

While you’re there, ensure some other associations in the container are tight, including wire nuts holding all wires safely, tucked far removed, and any clasps or screws are tight.

Observe the Receptacle:

Wrap the repository with electrical tape, cover the terminals, push the container back into the case, collapse the wires cautiously, and ensure the exposed copper wire isn’t close to the “hot” airports. Fix with the mounting screws. Supplant the cover plate and fix it safely, yet not hard enough to break the plastic.

Turn on the Power

Retest with the circuit analyzer to be sure you currently have an accurately grounded container.

Plug in a gadget, switch it on, and press the test button on the container by stopping the device. Afterward, press the reset button to affirm its suitable activity.


In the event that you have given ground to the repository, you may likewise utilize your outer analyzer with a GFCI test catch to test if the GFCI works.

Notice that almost all of the analyzers outside GFCI, i.e., a three-prong module with a “test” button owned by GFCI, are ungrounded.

However, the internal GFCI test circuit checks the critical power functions in a repository even without any ground.

A more modern analyzer with an extra establishing wire of its own would make a definitive test in such conditions.